Sunset Sitting Sated on the Seine

                                I never knew the charm of spring

                    I never met it face to face

                    I never knew my heart could sing

                    I never missed a warm embrace

                    Till April in Paris

                    Whom can I run to

                    What have you done to my heart

                                -“April in Paris” by Vernon Duke and E.Y. Harburg

Memorabilia

When I first planned my sabbatical in Ireland, I imagined I might take several short trips to other parts of Europe.  Though the flights are significantly less expensive from here, my cost of living has been quite high, so I had accepted that I would have a year without much travel.  However, when Carol McShane emailed and told me that she and her husband, Jim, would spend a month in Paris and invited me to visit, I was pleased to accept their kind offer.  I traveled to Paris during the time one of their seven children, Anne, visited.  

Jim, Carol and Anne McShane on Monet's bridge at Giverny

I had never been to Paris.  The two biggest proponents of this trip were Kevin and my mom.  Both had been to Paris and both declared that I would love the city.  They were right.  Yesterday when I called my parents to let them know I had arrived home safely in Galway, my mom asked, “What did you like best about Paris?”  I responded, “There is something in the air.”  I suppose I now better understand the French phrase, “Je ne sais quoi."  The phrase means, “I don’t know what,” but the phrase carries much connotative weight.  An online dictionary explains that the phrase refers to “an indefinable, elusive quality, especially a pleasing one.”  Yes.  That is Paris. 

Still, I can attempt to capture…

That first glimpse of the perennial symbol of Paris, the Eiffel Tower...

The expanse of the Seine...

The evening light as it illuminates the buildings...

The intricate iron grates and gates...

The meticulously cared for blooming flowers and trees...

Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, across the street from the McShane's apartment

The bustle of the street...

The expected and unexpected art...

Street art--mosaic

The diversity of people...

Wedding celebration outside the mayor's office in the 19th arrondissement

The smell of fresh baked bread and pastry emanating from the omnipresent boulangeries...   The feel of the pain au chocolat as it melts in my mouth…

Pastry with raisins

Before I arrived, Jim and Carol had mastered the Metro and the buses.  After her arrival, Anne discovered a website into which a person could enter a location and a destination and receive  public transportation directions.  One indicates if one prefers the route that is fastest, has the fewest changes or involves the least walking.  I had great fun riding buses and the Metro around the city. 

Jim, Carol and Anne McShane

Carol sent me excellent directions for getting from the airport to their rented apartment in the 19^th Arrondissement, or neighborhood.  On my walk from the Metro to their apartment, I passed a number of people carrying unwrapped baguettes and it made me smile. 

My first full day in Paris I took the elevator to the top of the Eiffel Tower and visited the Marmottan Museum which houses dozens of works by Claude Monet.  The museum was not crowded and I was able to fully enjoy the paintings.  That evening I had my first bowl of onion soup; it was rich and delicious. 

Outside the Museum

First stop on the way to the top

On Friday we visited Sainte Chapelle, Notre Dame, an outdoor flower market and a department store fashion show.  What struck me most about the fashion show was how well the women walked in their mile-high shoes. 

Sainte Chapelle

Notre Dame

Flower Market

Galeries Lafayette, department store with the fashion show

Saturday we ventured to Giverny, the home and garden of Claude Monet.  That day was the most beautiful of the whole trip, so it was the perfect day to wander about a garden.  The sun shone and the temperature hit the low 70s.  I hadn’t felt any outside temperature over 70 degrees since I left Nebraska last August.  The air hung with the scent of blooms.  The gardens were so beautiful I wondered if they might inspire even me to paint. 

Garden at Giverny

Gardens at Giverny

Gardens at Giverny

Jim and I attended mass at a church close to their apartment on Sunday morning.  Besides the common prayers, I had no idea what was being said, but it was fun to watch the multi-cultural crowd.  We all ate brunch at a restaurant in the park near the apartment that afternoon.  The brunch was amazing:  creamy scrambled eggs, smoked salmon, celery heart with sauce, croissant, fresh fruit, pane cotta, an almond bar and coffee.  I was struck by the presentation of the food—so beautiful!  That afternoon I ventured out by myself to Versailles. 

Brunch

Versailles

Versailles garden

Hall of Mirrors at Versailles

Gate at Versailles

Monday I fell in love with Sacre Coeur; I took one step inside the church and knew.  Sacre Coeur is beautiful and the messages in the statues, stained glass windows and mosaics were hopeful.  A light scent of incense hung in the air which felt comforting and familiar.  Later, Carol, Anne and I shopped for fabric and yarn in the Monmartre area, stopping for crepes for lunch.  Oh, the crepes!  We met up with Jim later for dinner at Le Procope which was founded in 1686.  After the crepes, I thought I would order something light.  After learning that coq au vin was chicken with wine, I decided that fit the bill.  I was oh-so-wrong.  My meal was extremely rich and delicious.  After dinner we strolled to the Seine, sat on a bench and watched the sun go down.  While sitting there we commented that we were “sitting, sated, on the Seine.”  We then took a nighttime cruise on the Seine.  Though it was chilly, we sat on top. 

Sacre Coeur

Name and address of the "crepe place" stamped on my hand by our waitperson

Buttons!

My six days in Paris were magical and there is so much I still have not done.  I have not visited the Louvre, the Musee d’Orsay, the Rodin Museum, the Champs Elysees…  And so I say to Paris, “Au revoir.”  Until next time…

Stairwell at the McShane's apartment