Cardinal Direction

Last week I traveled around Ireland with my Aunt Shirley and cousin, Denise. I had hoped to blog about the experience immediately upon my return, but I first turned my attention to editing all the photographs from the trip—591 of them. 

Almost everything we did was new to me and I suppose I have waited several days to write about this trip because my hope was to capture every minute of the fun and adventure.  This task felt daunting.  How could I write about every beautiful scene, every friendly Irish person, every story, every history lesson, every silly thing we laughed at, every sheep and cow grazing in the fields…?  I don’t think I can without writing a book. 

Also challenging was the task of naming this blog entry.  Aunt Shirley, Denise and I batted some ideas around during our last few days.  I was most struck by what Denise wrote in a postcard; she pointed out that on the trip we had visited all the coasts of Ireland:  Belfast to the north, Dublin to the east, Cork to the south, and Galway and the Ring of Kerry to the west.  I searched “north south east west” on Google and learned that these are called “Cardinal direction.”

North: 

On our trip north we experienced a combination of breathtaking scenery and history.  We visited the Giant’s Causeway and the Carrick–a-Rede (means “rock in the road”) rope bridge.  In Belfast we toured the area where the Titanic was built.  The Titanic and her two sister ships were modern marvels and the workers were very proud of their accomplishment.  Most notable to me was the phrase, “When she left here, she was fine.”  I was fascinated to see how Northern Ireland differed from the Republic of Ireland.  We saw many murals depicting “the troubles.” 

Giant's Causeway

The walk to the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge

Denise and Aunt Shirley on the bridge

The room where the Titanic and her sister ships were designed

Belfast mural

East:

Dublin was our home base during this trip.  We were in the city during an interesting time. The Queen of England was visiting and, as we left, the city was preparing for a visit by Barack Obama.  From what I can gather in the media and from talking with people, both visits were extremely successful.  The people of Dublin, though, put up with quite a bit of inconvenience as security for both trips was tight.  The Queen’s visit, in particular, was a challenge because it lasted several days.  President Obama was only in Ireland for one day.  We returned to Dublin on the evening of the Queen’s state dinner and almost all traffic in the center of the city was shut down.  We attempted to take a taxi from the train station to our hotel but our driver told us he could not get us there.  The driver shared some, ahem, “colorful” words about the Queen’s visit.  Surely taxi drivers were among the most inconvenienced.  He dropped us off near a tram stop and, one minute later, the trams stopped running.  We had no choice but to walk the mile and a half to our hotel.  That’s not all that far, but after a long trip and carrying our backpacks, it was a little taxing.  When we got to our hotel we were able to see the Queen’s entourage drive by.  This marks the second time I have been in the same city as the Queen of England and the second time I have seen the Queen.  Okay, I didn’t SEE the Queen this time, but I saw her car.  I think that counts.

Trams stopped while the Queen visited

Security for the Queen's visit

I'm pretty sure the Queen is in this car

South:

Though we were only there a short time, I loved the city of Cork.  We visited the harbor at Cobh were we toured the Heritage Center which featured the story of emigration from Ireland.  When the Irish left their island in the 1800s, they knew they were likely leaving for good.  Parting was excruciatingly sad.  It’s hard for me to imagine considering how difficult it was for me to leave my home and loved ones for a year. 

Blarney Castle.
Warning:  I kissed the Blarney Stone

Annie Moore, the first immigrant to be processed at Ellis Island.
She departed from Cobh, Ireland.

West:

One of the most exciting events of the trip was during our tour of the Ring of Kerry.  We stopped to see a sheep dog demonstration.   I was utterly fascinated.  The shepherd who trains the dogs, border collies, demonstrated how the dogs herd sheep based on his word and whistle commands.  Each dog has his or her own commands so he can direct them separately.  These dogs are SMART.  I have never seen anything like it.  After the herding demonstration, the shepherd showed us sheep of many different breeds.  As we climbed back on the bus I thought to myself, “THAT was incredible.  The only thing that would have made it better is if I had seen a little lamb up close.”  We saw many lambs from the bus windows and they looked adorable.  As we approached our next stop, a photo opportunity, our tour guide mentioned there would be a man sitting in the parking lot with a lamb that we could hold.  I almost didn’t believe my ears.  Sure enough, the man had a three-week old lamb.  I first asked if I could take a picture and then he asked if I wanted to hold it.  I was in heaven.  This moment is on the list of the top five things that have happened this year. 

Border collie herding sheep

Shepherd showing different breeds of sheep

Little lamb

I have left out so many sites, sounds and stories from this trip…  My aunt and cousin’s visit came at just the right time.  Our jaunt around the island felt like my last Irish hurrah.  I had been working so hard on my book that it also felt good to get away and clear my mind.  Aunt Shirley and Denise are excellent travel partners.  I look forward to exploring another part of the world with them soon.

The last night of our trip we attended a night of storytelling and music at the oldest pub in Dublin, the Brazen Head.  We had great fun.  Our storyteller, John, shared Irish tradition and history along with the stories he told.  John told us a lot about how stories of fairies taught important lessons.  For example, if a person has a good heart and is kind, that person will be rewarded.  I’m sure Aunt Shirley and Denise will be abundantly rewarded by the fairies!

And Now for Something Completely Different

Research Materials boxed for shipment back to the US

 After a great deal of intensive work on my book, I am happy to report a respite.  My Aunt Shirley and cousin Denise arrive in Galway this afternoon.  I am ready for some fun!!!!!

I will attend my last knitting class this morning.  I can hardly believe I have only been knitting for two months.  I so enjoy it and think about it all the time.  I remember clearly how excited I was at the end of my first class that I had knit an inch of stitches—the beginning of a headband.  Today we are going to learn how to put a thumb into a fingerless glove.  Oh boy! 

What I accomplished at my first class

That first project completed

I am surprised by how much I enjoy knitting because I tend to despise repetitive tasks.  This feels different to me, though.  There is something about watching a project grow beneath the needles…  The joy of creative expression, perhaps? 

Hat

Headband with cables and bobbles

Scarf made with yarn I purchased in Paris

Tomorrow Aunt Shirley, Denise and I will venture to the Cliffs of Moher.  On Monday we travel to Dublin.  We will take two rail tours from Dublin which will take us to places none of us have been:  Belfast, the Giant’s Causeway, Cork, the Ring of Kerry, Blarney Castle, etc.  I’m very excited!

When I return to Galway a week from tomorrow, I will have only one week left of my time in Ireland.  During that week I will finish “closing up” activities.   I also hope to edit the final three chapters of my book. 

I have a long road of reference and quote checking ahead of me this summer, but most of my work is complete.  I am very happy and ready to kick back and relax!

The Dock of the Bay

Sittin’ in the mornin’ sun

I’ll be sittin’ when the evenin’ come

Watching the ships roll in

And then I watch ‘em roll away again, yeah

I’m sittin’ on the dock of the bay

Watching the tide roll away

Ooo, I’m just sittin’ on the dock of the bay

Wastin’ time

                                    -(Sittin’ On) The Dock of the Bay, Otis Redding           

I have spent my sabbatical year sittin’ on the dock of the bay.  My favorite spot has been a chair by a window that overlooks the Galway docks, marina, harbor and Galway Bay.  More than any place, this is what I will think of when I recall my time in Ireland. 

My spot on the dock of Galway Bay

Unlike the narrator in the song, I have not been wasting time.  About a week ago I finished a complete draft of my book.  I spent this last week going over materials, including every interview transcript, to make sure I haven’t left out anything important.  I begin the editing process tomorrow. 

I feel like my spot, on the dock of the bay, nourished me for my work.

As my time in Ireland draws to a close and I busy myself with the details of leaving, I find myself remembering the first time I walked into this apartment.  Kevin and I had seen a number of places and when we stepped foot into this apartment, we both knew.  This was it.  

The first few weeks, when everything was strange, I told myself that soon this place would feel familiar.  And it was.  However, one of the things I have loved the most about my location is how the world outside my window is in constant motion. 

            It’s two thousand miles I roamed

            Just to make this dock my home

            Now, I’m just gonna sit at the dock of the bay

            Watching the tide roll away

            Oooo- wee, sittin, on the dock of the bay

            Wastin’ time. 

Murphy's Law

                        Nothing is as easy as it looks.

                        Everything takes longer than you expect.

                        And if anything can go wrong,

                        it will at the worst possible moment. 

I read recently that the phrase, “the luck of the Irish,” has its origins in the United States and actually refers to bad luck.  The phrase has many meanings, but I have been thinking about luck and curses lately because of a series of events that unfolded right outside my apartment window.  The story actually starts elsewhere in Ireland.

Due, I believe, to bankruptcy, two almost-new ferries worth 6 million euro were sold at the reported price of 1 million euro to owners on the island of Mauritius which is located near Madagascar.  These ferries were to be transported by ship to Mauritius. 

The first stroke of bad luck occurred when the Pantanal, the ship that was supposed to transport the ferries, hit some rocks and suffered damage.  That ship was moored in Galway Bay near Mutton Island for a week while the damages were repaired. 

A second ship, the Thor Gitta from Denmark, stood in and arrived in Galway to pick up the ferries.  On April 7, 2011, a second accident occurred.  While people stood on the docks and watched the loading of the first ferry, the ferry fell forty feet into the water when one of the slings holding it snapped.  Right before the accident, I had been standing on my balcony watching and taking pictures.  I turned to go back inside and get my knitting.  When I looked back out the window, the ferry had fallen and all the boats in the marina were rocking from the impact of the ferry when it hit the water. 

People gathered to watch the loading of the ferries

I am grateful I did not see the actual accident because the most horrifying part was knowing that there were three men onboard the ferry when it fell.  That was all I could think of after the accident.  I watched harbor personnel secure the ferry and ambulances and other emergency vehicles arrive.  I was relieved to learn the injuries sustained by the three men were not life threatening.  Still…  The Galway Harbour Board launched in inquiry into the accident.  The harbourmaster was quoted as having said the three men should not have been on the ferry when it was being lifted.   Indeed. 

The ferry right before it fell 40 feet into Galway Marina, you can see people on the ferry, to the left

Emergency responders

By now people began to refer to the ferries as “cursed” and there was great interest in the matter.   A large crowd gathered at the docks to watch the second attempt to load the ferries on Saturday, April 16.  This attempt was aborted when an alarm sounded on one the cranes.

Crowds gathered at the docks to watch the second attempt to load the ferries

After testing the cranes, the first ferry was finally loaded onto the Thor Gitta on April 20.  Securing the ferry took longer than expected, so the second ferry was not loaded until the next day.  Many people walked or drove to the docks to take a look at the ferries after they were loaded onto the Thor Gitta. 

Successfully loading the first ferry

Both ferries aboard the Thor Gitta

On Easter Sunday, April 23 at 8:45 AM, the Thor Gitta left Galway Marina with the two ferries onboard.  A small number of people waved the ship goodbye.  The trip to Mauritius, which will involve stops in France (for some ferry repair work), Congo, Cape Town and Mozambique, is scheduled to take 25 days. 

The Thor Gitta set sail on Easter morning

The Thor Gitta has been traveling for one week now.  I hope any luck on the journey is good luck.