Who's Counting?

“The machine does not isolate man from the great problems of nature 

but plunges him more deeply into them.”  -Antoine de Saint-Exupery           

Just before I went to sleep the night before Mary, Patty and Rod arrived for their visit, I threw the last of the laundry, towels, in the washer/dryer (hereafter w/d) and went to sleep.  When I awoke the next morning and wandered into the living room, I heard a noise that sounded like the w/d.   My not-quite-awake brain couldn’t comprehend the sound because the machine should have completed the wash cycle hours before.  I opened the door to the little closet and, sure enough, the w/d was still running.  It had gotten stuck in the first wash cycle and had agitated all night.  The machine was hot and the knob was not going to budge.  I turned the machine off and tried to open the hatch door.  Stuck. 

Later that morning I called my landlord, Brendan, to report the broken w/d.  I felt bad because I had just called him the day before to report a slow leak in my bathroom.  He assured me that he would tell the plumber about the washing machine problem and that the plumber would look at that, too.  I was surprised as in the U.S. a plumber would handle the leak and a repair person would handle the w/d.  I reasoned, however, that the plumber might actually be a “handy person” who can handle all sorts of issues.

The timing was unfortunate as I had guests arriving and we planned to keep pretty busy, not sit around and wait for a phone call.  I kept in touch with Brendan who assured me he had been in contact with the plumber several times.  Due to an unusually cold December, many people in Ireland had no water in their homes for weeks.  When the plumber finally called, he left me a message indicating that he was busy working on a house that had over sixty leaks.  The not stated but clear message was, “quit whining, some people have real problems.”  Point taken. 

I wasn’t too upset about the leak in the bathroom; I could stay on top of it with paper towels on the floor.  I was frustrated about the w/d, though.  First, I had towels trapped in the machine.  Second, I had three guests who had travelled to Europe with carryon sized luggage and the understanding that they could do laundry while they were here. 

Mary, Patty and Rod were troopers about the whole affair.  They hand washed some items and didn’t seem upset in the least.  The day they left the country, eleven days after the machine broke, I received a call from the plumber who came over to look at the leak.  I suggested to the plumber that I was more concerned about the w/d and he said, “Oh, well, that’s not something I would fix.  But I suppose I could take a look at it for you.” 

Ahem. 

The plumber determined that the bathroom leak is coming from behind tile, so he patched it and told me he couldn’t fix it until someone who could fix the tile was also present.  He looked at the w/d and concurred:  broken. 

Brendan called a repairperson who came by the apartment the next Monday (day 14).  He determined that the machine needs two replacement parts.  The repairperson told me he could order them that night and probably get them in time to install on Thursday (day 17).  On Wednesday (day 16), I received a text message from Brendan telling me that the part would not be in until Friday and the repairperson would be over on Monday (day 21). 

I finally broke down and realized I would HAVE to go to a Laundromat.  No amount of hand washing was going to save me now!  Because I would have to walk to the Laundromat and carry my necessities, I got online to find the closest establishment.  What I found felt like salvation:  a service that picks up dirty laundry, washes, dries and folds it,  and then returns it to you for 7.90 euro/about $10.75 per bag.  I called to arrange a pick up and then chose what I would need to get me through until Monday.  I don’t think I have ever been so happy to have clean pajamas and a clean hand towel in my life. 

On Monday (day 21), I received a call from the w/d repairperson; the parts had not arrived but he expected them on Wednesday (day 23).   I sent out two more bags of laundry.  On Wednesday, he called again and I met him, box of parts in hand, at the door.  He made a joke about a “comedy of errors.”  

One minute later he discovered that he had been sent the wrong parts.

Of COURSE he had.  

           

He looked stricken.  He promised me that he will be here first thing Monday morning (day 28).  That is tomorrow. 

Meanwhile, I decided to send everything dirty to the laundry.  I was tired of seeing the piles of towels and sheets and clothes.   Now almost everything I have here is clean and when my machine is fixed tomorrow (isn’t my optimism charming?) I won’t be desperate to start the wash. 

There may be some grand lesson in all this, but I have yet to determine what it is.  There’s still time; after all, the machine isn’t fixed yet. 

            

Galway Harbour Company, "It's Your Harbour"

When I return to Galway some time after 2015, the view I find most familiar, the one right outside my apartment window, may have undergone a drastic change.  Galway Harbour Company proposes a Port redevelopment that will enlarge facilities and expand the port into Galway Bay.

Galway Harbour Company hosted an open house for two days at which the public could “view and comment on our proposed redevelopment of the Port of Galway.”  I attended today’s open house which took place in the rather ugly gray structure right across the marina from my apartment building.  After signing in, I walked around the room and viewed renderings of the proposed port as well as posters that detailed the impact of the change.  

Shortly after I arrived an employee of Galway Harbour Company who wanted to know if I had any questions approached me.  Though I did not have much to ask, I did talk to him about the scrap heap and he assured me that if the plan is adopted, the scrap heap would be moved further down the new dock in Phase I of the plan.  I told the man that I have a love/hate relationship with the scrap heap and that it would be nice to not have the noise associated with it.  Of course, should this plan be adopted, I will be long gone before the location of the scrap heap changes. 

The current scrap heap

The proposed redevelopment involves potentially significant impact on economic and ecological systems.  If the plan receives approval and goes forward, Galway Harbor will be able to receive freight from even larger ships and transport the goods throughout western Ireland by rail.  In addition, the Galway Harbor Company hopes to welcome cruise ships.  Currently, cruise ships are too big to dock here.  Thousands more tourists could make their way to Galway every year impacting the local and regional economy as well as the cultural life and social scene. 

The “reclamation” of land for the new port would certainly impact marine life and many studies are underway to assess the impact of the proposed plan.  The borehole testing that is underway right now is part of the planning stage

At low tide I saw where I'm pretty sure a borehole test was conducted

Note that Oscar B. Otter might lose his habitat

If this plan comes to fruition, Galway will be quite a different place.  The few people I talked to at the open meeting today seemed supportive of the idea.  Of course, Ireland’s current economic woes might make approval a bigger challenge, but, as it was agreed today, “sometimes you have spend money to make money.”  While it is exciting to think about the beauty of a new harbor and the influx of tourists bringing their wallets and sense of adventure, I imagine the people of Galway are engaged in some serious soul searching about their vision for their community. 

Right now the scrap heap is at its zenith.  

I don’t know if this was part of the marketing plan of the new port, but it strikes me as persuasive to make all visitors walk past the gigantic pile of scrap metal and take a whiff of the "service station smell" it emits on their way to the open house.  

One year from now a final decision will be made on whether or not this project moves forward.  I don’t have a horse in this race, but I am grateful all who did had a chance to be heard. 

Visit http://www.galwayharbour.com/ for more information about the new port.

Of Dublin and Making a Break for the Sea

Dublin lamppost

Once again I left loved ones at the Dublin airport.  Earlier I feared I would resent Dublin because it is the location of so many goodbyes, but I have had such good times in Dublin now, I don’t think there’s any real danger left. 

Mary, Patty, Rod and I spent a quiet few days between our trip to the island of Inishmore and our journey to Dublin.  We spent most of one day inside the apartment watching the wind and rain and goings on in the harbor while Patty baked.  We also wandered around Galway and did some shopping.

Patty took this picture from my balcony

Mary took this picture at afternoon tea at Griffins

We arrived in Dublin in the afternoon last Wednesday.  After checking in at our hotel, we walked to Trinity College to see the Book of Kells and the library.  After the fairly quiet streets of Galway, bustling Dublin was a change.  That first day we negotiated light rain and lots of pedestrian traffic.  I kept my “always have an amazing Italian meal in Dublin” streak going at dinner that night.

The next day, our only full day in Dublin, was gorgeous.  By gorgeous, I mean that though the skies were cloudy, it did not rain and it was not cold.  We walked to a Georgian house museum that is open for touring.  Unfortunately, it was closed for conservation work.  We walked through a lovely nearby park, though.  We spent quite a lot of time at the National Library exploring the exhibit on WB Yeats.  The exhibit was very well done:  informative, interesting and creative. 

Sign of forthcoming spring?

Rachel at Yeats exhibit in the National Library

Protest near government buildings

Another hopeful sign

Leaves under water, reflection of tree branches

That night Patty, Rod, Mary and I joined a “Traditional Music Pub Crawl.”  We met in a pub in the Temple Bar area where we were introduced to our two “tour guides”—Anthony and Eugene.  Anthony and Eugene introduced us to traditional Irish instruments and songs.  They explained what an Irish session is like.  They shared many things including the fact that it’s a good idea to refrain from clapping along at a music session because one’s hands become an instrument that is considered part of the session.  Once a person begins to clap, that person is expected to “play” until the session is complete; sessions can last  up to 40 minutes without a break.  Anthony told us that a good alternative is to tap your feet; this also leaves the hands free for picking up and setting down a beverage of choice.

Eugene and Anthony explained to us how important singing is in Ireland—good singing or bad singing.  I loved hearing this because I love to sing and I have the personal philosophy that, in tune or not, singing is good for the soul.  This is a self-serving philosophy.  Eugene and Anthony told us that if a stranger walks into a pub in a small town, everyone will stop and stare.  If the strangers manage to stick it out, they will be interrogated (e.g. name, address, phone number) and then, perhaps, asked to sing.  If the person does sing, it will make a positive impression. 

After telling us this piece of information, Eugene and Anthony invited anyone in the crowd to sing.  Three groups or pairs took up the challenge, including Patty and Mary.  Those of you who have heard the Hawks sing know that they brought down the house.  I decided if I was ever asked to sing as described above, I would sing, “You are my Sunshine.”  I had fun singing it as I got ready this morning, so I am ready for my small-town pub debut!

Mary, Patty and Rod at the first stop on the Traditional Music Pub Crawl

Eugene playing banjo and Anthony playing guitar

I returned from Dublin to find a platform had been constructed in the harbor.  I was intensely curious about what it was for, so this morning I emailed the Galway Harbour Company and asked.  I received a kind response that explained the platform is being used for borehole testing on the sea bed as part of the plans for the new port which is under consideration right now.  I was surprised because the platform was close to the dock.  However, I left my perch near the window today for a few minutes and when I returned the platform was gone.  I was flabbergasted.  I grabbed my camera and went out on the balcony and sure enough, the platform had moved.  I had an image in my mind of the platform “crab-walking” as it made a break for the sea.  The platform was in Galway Bay when I took a walk later this afternoon. 

The kind woman from the Galway Harbour Company sent me an invitation to a public meeting this weekend at which plans for the new harbor will be discussed and public comment will be noted.  I am definitely going to attend.  I can’t wait to see what happens next!

The research platform in the harbour on Friday

The platform makes a break for the sea!

The Warmth of Friendship and Scones

My first guests of 2011, Mary, Patty and Rod, arrived in Ireland last Tuesday.  I found it so much easier to leave Michigan knowing that a few days later my dear friends would join me.  I was very excited to share my home away from home with them.

Patty, Rod and Mary at Ross Errily Friary

We have had a week of excellent tours, views, talk, shopping and food.  The weather has been extraordinarily cooperative, including yesterday during our trip to Inishmore, one of the Aran Islands. 

Though I have visited Inishmore two times before with Kevin and Erin, I have never taken a mini-bus tour of the island.  The bus brought us to several sights I had not yet seen, including the ruins of seven churches.  We also saw a number of seals relaxing on the rocks just off the shoreline.  We ate in a wonderful café in front of a roaring fire where I had the best Irish beef stew yet.  We walked up to Dun Aengus.  The sun shone brightly and we had the cliff to ourselves.  

Rachel, Mary and Rod in the Ruins of the Seven Churches

The ruins of the seven churches

Guinness Beef Stew

Seals

After our tour and sweater shopping, we had about an hour before we needed to catch our Ferry, so we went to the one open food establishment during the off-season.  We sat in the only open chairs which were located at the bar.  A male resident of Inishmore sat next to us working his way through pints of Guinness.  He enjoyed gently teasing us for our choice of beverages (hot tea for the women and Coke for Rod).  The man encouraged us to take a picture of me holding his Guinness; he is in the background.

I am convinced that the connotative meaning of curse words is quite different for many Irish folks as we were also treated to a number of words that are generally not uttered in polite company in the U.S. 

After multiple busy days, we are having a quiet day today.  Patty decided, with Kevin’s help, that I needed to confront my fear of my oven.  You may recall that the two times I have used my oven (to bake salmon), it smoked and set off the smoke alarm.  Patty arrived tempting me with promise of baked goods. 

This morning I was engulfed in the smell of baking scones.  Patty drizzled them with icing and served them with lemon curd.  Right now a lemon cake is baking. 

Patty's Scones

To ensure that I will confront my fear of my oven, Patty has left three unbaked scones in my freezer along with directions on how to bake them.  Evil?  Yes.  Effective?  Oh, yes.  

Patty and Rod on Galway Bay

Mary and Rachel in the King's Head Pub eating West Coast Seafood Chowder

The Smell of Soap

I have returned to Galway after a wonderful holiday with loved ones in Grand Rapids.  I can’t help but compare the experience of my first sabbatical with this current one.  When I returned home for Christmas seven years ago, what I remember the most is how soft everything seemed.   In Italy, all my laundry was scratchy because it hung to dry.  I specifically remember standing on the soft rug in the bathroom and marveling at how it felt under my feet. 

My Galway apartment is much less stark than my Florence apartment, so while I appreciated the softness of home, the Christmas finery, and the roaring fire, what stands out the most to me on this trip is the people.  I wish I had had the time to visit with everyone I wanted to see, but the people I did see made it a very special holiday.   I spent a lot of time with my immediate and extended family; I don’t know why I continue to be surprised by how much my nephews grow and change, but it seems to happen every time I see them.  I took multiple trips to Biggby Coffee on Plainfield with dad and Lloyd (dad’s walking and coffee drinking buddy/neighbor).  I visited with dear friends like Chris, Paula, Becky, Karen, Janie and Steven. 

I was so thrilled that Kevin visited for three days.  I introduced him to family and friends he had not met, showed him around Grand Rapids (though I got us lost once!), and acquainted him with the wonder of Real Food Café pancakes.  We also had two fantastic dinners out. 

When I returned to Italy after Christmas break, I remember feeling surprised by how familiar things felt.  This time I expected everything to feel familiar upon my return.  I was surprised, though, that the most striking moment was when I washed my hands soon after arrival in my apartment—the hand soap I use here has a distinctive bitter lime smell and it smelled like home.

Colin and Dylan in Rudolf noses from Aunt Shirley

Dylan enjoys real Italian hot chocolate

Which one is dad?

Kevin and Rachel at Biggby Coffee

Kevin and Rachel