Beyond the Pale: Life on the Docks

The one part of my move to Ireland that caused the most anxiety was arriving without an apartment arranged. I talked to a number of people who had been to Ireland on sabbatical or for travel and I emailed an apartment broker in Galway and all concurred: arrive and then look. That was comforting, but I did not want to spend a lot of money staying in a hotel, and my hope was to find a place during my first full day in the country and move in the next day.

   The apartment hunt was much more difficult than I anticipated. The biggest difference is that I assumed that we wound find a broker who would show us a variety of places and I would pick the one I liked best. Instead, an interested renter is expected to view properties online and then call the contact person to set up a viewing. Though one may get a little lucky now and again, one should not expect to set up a time for that same day.

   I had an appointment for 9:00 AM on Monday, our first full day, that I set up before I left Lincoln. I thought this might be my dream apartment. The location was great and parts of the apartment were very nice, but what was online and what we found had some differences and this threw me off. At this first meeting, I also learned that a renter does not just say, "I'll take it." A renter can say, "I want it," but that is when the application process begins. The application includes, among other things, two letters of reference (current employer and current or former landlord). These are shown to the owner and the owner decides if you are acceptable. You may, for example, want a ten-month lease while someone else might want a twelve-month lease. The twelve-month lease is, of course, preferable to the owner.

   We viewed four different properties that first day. They were all acceptable, but none were wonderful. (We also saw the outside of one that was NOT acceptable--dark and unkempt, to put it nicely).   One nice apartment outside the city center seemed very promising. After we viewed the apartment, we walked back into the center of town on that beautiful day; I imagined doing the long walk in the driving rain in January.   It was then that I realized that “location, location, location” really is key. I didn't want to feel trapped in my apartment by the weather. The last apartment we saw that day was very nice and conveniently located; I put in an application that evening but planned to keep looking.

   Meanwhile, we had an appointment to view an apartment that both Kevin and I thought might be "it." Kevin had the idea to walk to an apartment building we had seen on our first evening’s walk; he thought they might have a rental office. There was no office, but there was a sign with the name of the management company and a phone number. I called and there was a vacancy but no way to view the apartment until the next day. As I stated, I really wanted to settle everything that first day; that dream was fading and we extended our hotel reservation by one night and planned to view the possible dream apartment the next day.

   Before viewing the apartment we were both most excited about, we saw one other apartment that was a long walk from the city center. The apartment was great but the location was sterile and life sucking (above mini-mall shopping center—ugh).

   We walked to the one we really wanted to see. We both knew. It was over.

   I could say that this was the apartment of my wildest dreams, but I didn't have dreams that wild.

   The apartment is on the fourth floor of a building that is built on a peninsula jutting out into Galway Bay with a lough (loch) on one side and where the River Corrib empties into Galway Bay. The building is adjacent to a large waterfront park called Claddagh Park (as in Claddagh ring) making my dream of walking along the water every day less of a dream and more reality. The building is also located at the base of the city center which is the shopping and entertainment hub of Galway. As if that wasn't enough, there is a view of the Bay from the balcony. That's right. A balcony. The bay. A view.

   The apartment itself is beautiful. It has two bedrooms and two bathrooms (perfect for guests), a lovely sitting room with a new sofa, and a well-appointed kitchen. And crown molding. The building is large and secure and there is actual art in the common areas.

   I asked the agent who showed us the apartment if she had an application. No application necessary. She was showing the place to someone else right after us, but acted as if renting to a university professor on sabbatical was a great move. She called her agency and got things moving. Kevin and I stopped by later, I paid a deposit and first month's rent. I signed the lease the next day and picked up my key.

   My apartment is so much more than I could have hoped for, but there are a few drawbacks. The first, and biggest, I hope will be resolved soon. There is a sewer-like smell emanating from the hall/guest bathroom. Kevin named the smell “the beast.” He did some investigating and he believes the source is the toilet tank which he believes needs to be replaced. I have a call in to the management company; hopefully they will kill the beast. The guest bathroom is also very small. (Guests might want to bring a robe or leave their modesty behind.)  The toaster, coffeemaker and electric teakettle can be described as “gross.” I can live without a toaster and a teakettle, but a coffeemaker is essential to my well being, so I purchased an inexpensive version. I also replaced the clothes-drying rack. I think I’m almost done with such purchases, but I am contemplating buying an inexpensive iron. I have a washer/dryer that is one unit. The dryer function does a little drying, but many items come out damp and desperately wrinkled; they need to air dry to a greater or lesser extent.   No one knows me here. Yet. So walking around in wrinkled clothes doesn’t sound too horrible, but soon I expect to want to look like I take some care.

   I found the apartment hunt quite stressful. I learned that many people are searching for apartments this time of year as the academic year is about to begin and the local university students move back to town. Kevin was a great balance; he viewed the process as a hunt or a game to be won. I’m grateful because I probably would have rented one of the first places I saw just to have the decision made. Instead, I am living in a place beyond my imagination.

   Here are some photos of the inside of the apartment. You will note that some of the apartment is quite modern and a few pieces of furniture are "country style."